Is My Catalytic Converter Clogged? 5 Common Signs To Check

November 28, 2025

A healthy catalytic converter keeps emissions low and power consistent. When the honeycomb inside starts to plug or break apart, the engine works harder to push exhaust out, and performance falls off. Catching the problem early can save fuel, restore power, and prevent damage to sensors and mufflers.


Below are five clear signs and how to separate a real restriction from look-alike issues.


1. Power Feels Choked, Especially on Hills


A restricted converter limits how fast exhaust can leave the engine. The result is a vehicle that pulls away normally at low speed, then feels flat above 2,000 to 3,000 rpm or struggles on grades. You may also notice longer downshifts or a deeper exhaust note.


If power returns briefly after a cool soak, then fades again when hot, restriction is moving up the list of suspects.


2. High Heat or a Sulfur Smell From the Exhaust Area


Overworked catalysts run hot. After a long climb or heavy traffic, heat can soak into the floor near the converter. A strong sulfur or “rotten egg” odor suggests the catalyst is overwhelmed by unburned fuel. That smell can also come from a rich-running engine or bad fuel, so treat it as a clue, not proof.


If the odor appears with a loss of power, the two together point toward an exhaust problem that needs attention.


3. Check Engine Light With Efficiency or Sensor Codes


Common gasoline codes include P0420 or P0430 for low catalyst efficiency. You might also see oxygen sensors or fuel trim codes when the converter is struggling. Codes alone do not condemn the cat. Misfires, vacuum leaks, leaky injectors, and tired O2 sensors can fool the monitor.


A proper diagnosis compares upstream and downstream sensor activity and looks at fuel trims to confirm whether the converter itself is the issue or a victim of another fault.


4. Rough Idle, Stalling on Deceleration, or Hard Hot Restarts


When the internal brick breaks and shifts, pieces can intermittently block the outlet. That shows up as an uneven idle, a stall when coming to a stop, or a hard restart after a short heat soak. Another clue is a quick improvement when the exhaust cools for a few minutes.


These symptoms can also come from sticky throttle bodies or weak ignition parts, so verification matters before replacing anything expensive.


5. Poor Fuel Economy That Arrived With New Exhaust Noise


A plugged converter makes the engine less efficient. You may find yourself pressing the throttle deeper to keep up with traffic while the trip computer displays. Sometimes there is a faint hiss or whoosh from under the car as exhaust squeezes through a small open area. Pairing a fresh drop in mpg with that noise and soft high-rpm power is a strong hint to check backpressure.


Simple Checks Before You Assume the Converter Is Bad


  • Confirm clean intake: Make sure the air filter is clean and the intake snorkel is fully connected.
  • Listen for fuel pump noise: A pump that gets louder as the tank warms can signal low fuel pressure, which mimics a clogged exhaust.
  • Rule out fueling and ignition faults: Address recent misfires or rich running conditions that can damage a healthy converter.
  • Check for oil burning: Excess oil consumption can foul the catalyst quickly.


What Damages Catalytic Converters in the First Place


Converters are tough but not invincible. Unfixed misfires send raw fuel into the brick, causing it to overheat and melt the cells. Coolant or oil entering the exhaust coats the surfaces and blocks reaction sites. Repeated short trips can load the catalyst with deposits if the engine never reaches full temperature.


Solving these upstream problems protects a new converter and keeps the warning light off for the long term.


Get Catalytic Converter Testing and Repair in Spartanburg with Advantage AC, Tire & Repair


If your car feels choked on hills, shows catalyst efficiency codes, or gives off a sulfur smell, schedule a visit to our Spartanburg shop. We will test for backpressure, review fuel trims and sensor activity, fix any upstream causes, and replace the converter only when it is truly needed.


Leave with restored power, a quiet dash, and emissions gear that lasts.

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